Panthenol

By Maria Miller

INCI Name

Panthenol (also listed as D-Panthenol or Provitamin B5)
CAS Number: 16485-10-2 (D-Panthenol), 81-13-0 (DL-Panthenol)

Raw Material Source

Panthenol is typically synthesized from isobutyraldehyde and formaldehyde, then chemically converted. While the synthesis pathway is petrochemical-derived in most commercial production, some suppliers offer bio-based or partially renewable versions sourced from plant sugars or fermentation processes.

Overview

Panthenol is the provitamin form of vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid). Once absorbed into the skin or hair, enzymes convert it into pantothenic acid, a vital component of coenzyme A, central to cellular energy metabolism and tissue repair. In cosmetic formulations, panthenol is prized for its ability to attract and retain moisture, soothe irritation, and support the skin’s natural barrier function.

Cosmetic Function

  • Humectant: Draws moisture from the environment into the skin and hair.
  • Moisturizer / Emollient: Softens and smooths the skin surface.
  • Skin-Soothing Agent: Calms redness and irritation, particularly in sensitive or compromised skin.
  • Hair Conditioning Agent: Improves manageability, shine, and elasticity of hair fibers.
  • Barrier Support: Enhances the skin’s lipid barrier, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Mechanism of Action

Panthenol penetrates the stratum corneum and is enzymatically converted to pantothenic acid. This conversion supports:

  • Cellular proliferation and repair: Pantothenic acid is a precursor to coenzyme A, essential for lipid synthesis and wound healing.
  • Hydration: Its hygroscopic nature helps bind water molecules, maintaining skin and hair hydration.
  • Anti-inflammatory effects: Modulates inflammatory pathways, reducing erythema and discomfort in sensitive skin. 

Production & Sustainability Profile

Most panthenol is produced via chemical synthesis. However, growing demand for sustainable ingredients has led to the development of bio-based panthenol derived from renewable feedstocks. When sourcing panthenol, look for suppliers committed to:

  • Renewable or partially bio-based raw materials
  • Energy-efficient manufacturing processes
  • Transparent supply chains and third-party certifications (e.g., EcoCert, COSMOS)

Benefits for Skin

  • Deep Hydration: Binds moisture to the skin, improving suppleness and reducing dryness.
  • Barrier Repair: Supports lipid synthesis, strengthening the skin’s protective barrier.
  • Soothing & Calming: Reduces redness and irritation, ideal for sensitive or reactive skin.
  • Wound Healing: Accelerates recovery from minor abrasions, sunburn, or environmental stress.
  • Anti-Aging Support: Enhances skin elasticity and smoothness over time.

Benefits for Hair

  • Moisture Retention: Penetrates the hair shaft to lock in hydration and reduce brittleness.
  • Improved Elasticity: Strengthens hair fibers, reducing breakage and split ends.
  • Shine & Smoothness: Smooths the cuticle layer, enhancing light reflection and manageability. 
  • Scalp Health: Soothes irritation and supports a balanced scalp environment.

Applications in Formulations

Panthenol is highly versatile and stable across a wide pH range (4–7). It is commonly used in:

  • Moisturizers & Serums: For hydration and barrier support
  • Cleansers: To offset potential drying effects
  • Sunscreens & After-Sun Products: For soothing and repair
  • Shampoos & Conditioners: To improve hair texture and moisture, like in our Amber Glow Conditioner Bar
  • Leave-In Treatments: For ongoing hydration and protection
  • Wound Care & Healing Balms: To accelerate recovery

Typical Use Concentration: 0.5–5% in leave-on products; up to 1% in rinse-off formulations.

Safety & Regulatory Notes

  • INCI Status: Approved for use in cosmetics globally (EU, US, Canada, etc.)
  • Safety Profile: Generally recognized as safe (GRAS) with minimal risk of irritation or sensitization.
  • Pregnancy & Nursing: Considered safe for topical use during pregnancy and lactation.
  • Patch Testing: Recommended for individuals with known sensitivities, though reactions are rare.

Citations & References

1. Ebner, F., et al. (2002).

Topical use of dexpanthenol in skin disorders.
American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 3(6), 427–433.
https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/Topical-Use-of-Dexpanthenol-in-Skin-Disorders-Ebner-Heller

2. Proksch, E., & de Jongh, C. M. (2018).

Skin barrier function and panthenol.
Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 29(sup4), 8–14. https://doi.org/10.1080/09546634.2017.1325310

3. Camargo, F. B., et al. (2011).

Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol‑based formulations.
Journal of Cosmetic Science, 62(4), 361–370. Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations - PubMed

4. Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2020).

Safety Assessment of Panthenol and Pantothenic Acid as Used in Cosmetics. 6: Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Panthenol and Pantothenic Acid, 1987


 

    Tags: Conditioning, Moisturizing