Cocamidopropyl Betaine

By Maria Miller

 

INCI Name

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

CAS Number

61789‑40‑0

Raw Material Source

Derived from coconut oil (or palm kernel oil), combined with dimethylaminopropylamine (DMAPA) and chloroacetic acid.
Coconut oil is a renewable plant‑based resource, though sustainability depends on farming practices and certification.

Overview

Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB) is a zwitterionic surfactant widely used in personal care formulations for its ability to cleanse gently while reducing irritation from harsher surfactants. Although derived from coconut oil, CAPB is not a “raw coconut” ingredient — it is a coconut‑derived, chemically processed surfactant that balances mildness, foam stability, and biodegradability.

Cosmetic Function

  • Mild Surfactant: Provides gentle cleansing without stripping.
  • Foam Booster: Enhances lather in shampoos and cleansers.
  • Viscosity Enhancer: Helps stabilize and thicken formulations.
  • Irritation Reducer: Mitigates harshness of primary surfactants like SLS/SLES.
  • Conditioning Agent: Leaves skin and hair feeling softer and smoother.

Mechanism of Action

CAPB carries both positive and negative charges, allowing it to:

  • Lift oils and impurities while maintaining skin and hair moisture.
  • Reduce irritation by interacting with anionic surfactants to form milder complexes.
  • Enhance foam stability through its amphoteric structure.
  • Support conditioning by depositing a soft, flexible film on hair fibers.

Production & Sustainability Profile

Manufacturing Process

  1. Amidation: Coconut‑derived fatty acids react with DMAPA to form an amide intermediate.
  2. Quaternization: The intermediate reacts with chloroacetic acid, producing Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

This process creates a biodegradable, mild surfactant with excellent performance in personal care.

Environmental Considerations

  • Biodegradable: Breaks down naturally, reducing long‑term environmental impact.
  • Aquatic Impact: Incomplete degradation can affect waterways, though significantly less than harsher surfactants.
  • Carbon Footprint: Influenced by energy‑intensive processing and global transport of coconut oil.
  • Sourcing Concerns: Unsustainable coconut farming can contribute to deforestation and biodiversity loss.

Sustainable Sourcing Notes

Look for suppliers using:

  • Rainforest Alliance or Sustainable Agriculture Network certified coconut oil
  • Transparent supply chains
  • Reduced‑impact manufacturing practices
  • Renewable energy integration

Benefits for Skin

  • Gentle Cleansing: Removes impurities without stripping natural oils.
  • Reduced Irritation: Ideal for sensitive or reactive skin.
  • Softening Effect: Leaves skin smoother and more hydrated.
  • Barrier‑Friendly: Less disruptive to the lipid barrier than harsher surfactants.

Benefits for Hair

  • Improved Manageability: Softens hair and reduces friction.
  • Enhanced Lather: Creates a rich, creamy foam.
  • Reduced Dryness: Helps maintain moisture during cleansing.
  • Scalp Comfort: Less irritating than traditional surfactants.

Applications in Formulations

Used in:

  • Shampoos
  • Body washes
  • Facial cleansers
  • Hand soaps
  • Baby products
  • Bath foams
  • Sensitive‑skin formulations

Compatible across a wide pH range and pairs well with anionic, nonionic, and amphoteric surfactants.

Typical Use Concentration

  • Rinse‑off products: 4–40% (depending on system)
  • Cleansers: 5–15%
  • Shampoos: 10–30%
  • Baby products: 3–10%

Safety & Regulatory Notes

  • Globally approved for cosmetic use (US, EU, Canada, Australia).
  • Generally recognized as safe with low irritation potential.
  • Allergy Notes: Most reactions are linked to impurities (DMAPA or amidoamine), not CAPB itself.
  • High‑purity CAPB significantly reduces sensitization risk.
  • Pregnancy & Nursing: Considered safe for topical use.
  • Patch Testing: Recommended for individuals with known sensitivities.

Citations & References

  1. https://yeserchem.com/a-consumers-guide-to-cocamidopropyl-betaine/
  2. https://independentchemical.com/blogs/biodegradable-cocamidopropyl-betaine-for-eco-friendly-formulations-20118.aspx
  3. https://elchemy.com/blogs/capb-reports/how-is-capb-manufactured
  4. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cocamidopropyl_betaine
  5. https://www.betterbasics.co/blogs/news/what-is-cocamidopropyl-betaine-and-why-we-removed-it-from-our-products
  6. https://onlycoconuts.com/the-environmental-impact-of-coconut-oil-production-a-sustainability-perspective/
  7. https://www.rainforest-alliance.org/insights/certified-coconut-oil/
  8. https://www.mckinsey.com/capabilities/operations/our-insights/building-sustainability-into-operations
  9. https://www.heraproject.com/files/ingredients/cocamidopropyl-betaine.pdf